Summary by TwinMind · 48m 57s
Summary by TwinMind · 48m 57s

Marcus Samuelsson | The Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food | Talks at Google

Marcus Samuelsson | The Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food | Talks at Google

Talks at Google

Talks at Google

Introduction and Host Welcome

  • Host Amber from Google Cloud welcomes Marcus Samuelson for Black History Month celebration
  • Marcus' background: chef with 13 restaurants worldwide, including Harlem's Red Rooster
  • TV appearances: Top Chef Masters, No Passport Required
  • Former White House guest chef during Obama administration
  • Best-selling author of 8 books, discussing "The Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food"
  • Fourth time speaking at Google events

Marcus Samuelson's Current Location and Perspective

  • Speaking from Miami, Overtown restaurant location
  • Reflects on privileges and navigating challenging times during pandemic
  • Appreciates Google staff curiosity about cooking and platform building

"The Rise" Book Overview and Purpose

  • 4-year project to create comprehensive black food cookbook
  • Main goals:
    • Acknowledge black excellence in food
    • Show diversity within black food culture
    • Address biggest misunderstanding: lack of recognition of black food diversity
    • Establish correct authorship of American food contributions
  • Framework: Authorship → Correct Memories → Aspirations
  • Comparison: extensive knowledge exists about Italian, Spanish, French food vs. limited black cooking content

Book Structure and Content Approach

  • Stories from diverse contributors: chefs, writers from around world
  • Examples of diversity:
    • Naisha Arrington: Korean-American and African-American (Los Angeles)
    • Greg Goday: Haitian-American (Portland)
    • Marcus: Ethiopian background living in New York
  • European narratives well-documented through trading, tourism, content
  • Black cooking stories historically under-shared, creating "murkier" understanding

Complementary Show and Social Impact

  • Collaboration with UberEats for accompanying show
  • Black Business Matters Matching Fund established
    • Provides grants (not loans) to small black family businesses
    • Critical support during pandemic
  • Planned residence program from "The Rise"
    • 6-week study opportunity for black chef
    • Modeled after art/music world residencies, uncommon in culinary field
  • Focus on generational wealth of knowledge creation

Book Organization: Future-First Approach

  • Chapter 1: "Who Got Next" - optimistic focus on emerging talent
  • Featured young talent like Patricia Gonzalez (17 when book started)
  • Black food exists beyond restaurants:
    • YouTube platforms
    • Pop-ups
    • Various non-traditional venues
  • Parallel to hip-hop evolution: park parties → mainstream pop culture

Current Culinary Landscape and Opportunities

  • Pivotal entrepreneurship moment in America post-pandemic
  • Traditional gatekeepers (newspapers, magazines) less relevant
  • Social media democratizes food storytelling
  • Historical barriers for black entrepreneurs:
    • Lack of generational wealth
    • Blocked from institutional lending
    • Excluded from traditional review systems
  • Current advantage: direct broadcasting through social media

Resources and Accessibility

  • Book includes comprehensive resource section
  • Vendor information for specialty ingredients (Venice Seeds, Barbara, etc.)
  • Google-like research encouragement for readers
  • Supports local/online stores through increased demand
  • Learning approach similar to mastering Japanese soy, ramen, Italian cuisine

Five Original American Cuisines from Black Diaspora

  • Low country cuisine
  • Southern/soul food
  • Cajun and Creole
  • Barbecue
  • All stem from black diaspora influence
  • Parallel to American music: blues, funk, hip-hop, jazz, gospel

Leah Chase: Culinary Legend and Inspiration

  • Owned New Orleans restaurant (opened 1940s, still operating 80+ years)
  • Broke segregation laws serving integrated clientele
  • Civil rights meeting location
  • Activist and advocate for black art
  • Crowdfunded civil rights movement in 1950s-60s
  • Marcus credits civil rights movement + immigration laws for his American opportunity

Featured Contributors and Diversity Examples

  • Cheryl Day: baker from Savannah, Georgia
  • Nina Compton: New Orleans-based chef
  • Eduardo Jordan: Seattle-based, Lagos-influenced cuisine
  • 45 featured chefs with full stories
  • 200+ chefs mentioned throughout book
  • Emphasis on ubiquitous presence, not geographic limitations

Recipe Showcase and Discussion

  • Cauliflower steak with jambalaya-inspired mayo (Nina Compton)
    • Vegetarian option, pandemic-inspired plant-based eating
    • Pairing suggestions: collards, lentils, turmeric rice
  • Seamoss Delight smoothie
    • Caribbean superfood, Jamaica origins
    • Overnight soaking process, creates natural jelly
    • Vegan ocean seaweed blend with orange juice
  • Kelewelly (plantains)
    • West African street food inspiration
    • Ripe plantains with spice mix and dip
    • Reflects outdoor eating culture in African markets
  • Fish cakes with greens (Michelle from Restaurant Gray, Savannah)
    • 2020 connection through virtual cooking experiences
  • Red wine spice chocolate cake
    • Practical use of leftover wine
    • Welcoming approach to black food accessibility
    • Ingredients: cinnamon, orange, complex flavors

Personal Cooking and Family Traditions

  • Family dynamics: wife's sisters take over kitchen during holidays
  • Ethiopian food hierarchy: Marcus ranks 5th best cook in household
  • Son Zion loves cooking process, less interested in eating
  • Oral tradition importance in black food culture
  • Ancient dish histories: Kitfo (2000+ years), Doro Wat (thousands of years)
  • Higher purpose: cultural representation and introduction

Marcus' Kitchen Essentials

  • High-quality olive oil
  • Various vinegars (rice wine, etc.)
  • El Ras el Hanout spice blend from Morocco ("top of the shop")
  • Five spice blends as building blocks
  • Current experiments: dried collard greens with bene seeds and seaweed powder
  • Testing kitchen approach to recipe development

Pandemic Impact and Restaurant Industry Challenges

  • 41% of black businesses (not just restaurants) closed due to COVID
  • Average affected business employed 10-12 people
  • Neighborhood economic impact: mom-and-pop business clusters
  • Personal navigation advantage: established brand and history
  • Public-private partnerships emerging as hopeful response
  • Black Business Matters fund addressing specific community needs

Supporting Black Culinary Businesses

  • Research local black-owned restaurants via Google search
  • Order takeout/delivery when possible
  • Purchase restaurant merchandise/swag
  • Volunteer professional skills (tech, marketing, accounting)
  • 4 hours monthly volunteer commitment suggestion
  • Combination approach: financial support + skill sharing
  • Creative problem-solving during pandemic restrictions

Historical Culinary Figures (Under-recognized)

  • Fanny and Edith: Thomas Jefferson's executive chefs (ages 15 and 18)
  • Sofia Wright: LBJ's chef, major influence on black voting rights
  • Georgia Gilmore: single mother of six, 3 AM cake baking, $100/week to civil rights movement
  • Advocates and activists absent from history books
  • Foundational contributions to American "stew" of food culture

Fusion Cooking and Cultural Blending

  • Ethiopian-Swedish-American combination example
  • Cured coffee smoked salmon concept
  • Green coffee toasting with Swedish salmon
  • Coffee mustard sauce with Swedish dill and Ethiopian mustard
  • Personal cultural intersection celebration

Low Country Food Definition and Evolution

  • Geographic region: Carolinas extending to Tennessee
  • Slave trade route: West Africa → Charleston
  • Key ingredients brought through slavery: rice, okra
  • Senegalese Jollof rice similarity to grits/rice dishes
  • Climate and terroir influence on food evolution
  • Great Migration impact on regional food variations
  • Music parallel: Fela Kuti evolution to Burna Boy and Wizkid

Afro-Cuban Ingredients and Market Representation

  • Currently underrepresented in major food stores
  • Growth opportunity space identified
  • Jerk sauce example of broader acceptance
  • Social media changing distribution patterns
  • Traditional community-specific distribution expanding
  • Youth openness and curiosity driving change

Advice for Young Chefs

  • Keep cooking and rising
  • Document journey on social media/blogs
  • Build "menu of life" through experiences
  • People more open to background stories today
  • Cook authentically for family/friends
  • Study and learn craft fundamentals simultaneously
  • Balance creativity with technical knowledge

Business Growth and Platform Sharing Philosophy

  • Not either/or between restaurant operations and advocacy
  • Duty to share platform and bring people up
  • Red Rooster as training ground: 5-year development of chef Tristan for Miami location
  • Talent + structure + opportunities = sustainable growth
  • "Kick down doors" and ensure others follow
  • Room sharing responsibility once achieving access

Final Reflections and Joy in Creation

  • Honoring grandparents and mentors through work
  • Creating content absent during his career development
  • No available cookbooks by people of color when starting
  • Providing learning center for all audiences:
    • Non-black chefs seeking education
    • Companies wanting allyship guidance
    • Young people of color seeing representation
  • Aspirational impact: showing community presence and possibility
  • Series potential: Rise Part Two, Part Three planned

Book Availability and Follow-up

  • Available at independent bookstores (preferred support)
  • Amazon availability
  • Follow @marcuscooks for events and updates
  • "This Moment" podcast for ongoing content
  • Local indie bookstore support emphasized during pandemic