Summary by TwinMind · 48m 57s
Summary by TwinMind · 48m 57s
Marcus Samuelsson | The Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food | Talks at Google
Marcus Samuelsson | The Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food | Talks at Google
Talks at Google
Talks at Google
Introduction and Host Welcome
- Host Amber from Google Cloud welcomes Marcus Samuelson for Black History Month celebration
- Marcus' background: chef with 13 restaurants worldwide, including Harlem's Red Rooster
- TV appearances: Top Chef Masters, No Passport Required
- Former White House guest chef during Obama administration
- Best-selling author of 8 books, discussing "The Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food"
- Fourth time speaking at Google events
Marcus Samuelson's Current Location and Perspective
- Speaking from Miami, Overtown restaurant location
- Reflects on privileges and navigating challenging times during pandemic
- Appreciates Google staff curiosity about cooking and platform building
"The Rise" Book Overview and Purpose
- 4-year project to create comprehensive black food cookbook
- Main goals:
- Acknowledge black excellence in food
- Show diversity within black food culture
- Address biggest misunderstanding: lack of recognition of black food diversity
- Establish correct authorship of American food contributions
- Framework: Authorship → Correct Memories → Aspirations
- Comparison: extensive knowledge exists about Italian, Spanish, French food vs. limited black cooking content
Book Structure and Content Approach
- Stories from diverse contributors: chefs, writers from around world
- Examples of diversity:
- Naisha Arrington: Korean-American and African-American (Los Angeles)
- Greg Goday: Haitian-American (Portland)
- Marcus: Ethiopian background living in New York
- European narratives well-documented through trading, tourism, content
- Black cooking stories historically under-shared, creating "murkier" understanding
Complementary Show and Social Impact
- Collaboration with UberEats for accompanying show
- Black Business Matters Matching Fund established
- Provides grants (not loans) to small black family businesses
- Critical support during pandemic
- Planned residence program from "The Rise"
- 6-week study opportunity for black chef
- Modeled after art/music world residencies, uncommon in culinary field
- Focus on generational wealth of knowledge creation
Book Organization: Future-First Approach
- Chapter 1: "Who Got Next" - optimistic focus on emerging talent
- Featured young talent like Patricia Gonzalez (17 when book started)
- Black food exists beyond restaurants:
- YouTube platforms
- Pop-ups
- Various non-traditional venues
- Parallel to hip-hop evolution: park parties → mainstream pop culture
Current Culinary Landscape and Opportunities
- Pivotal entrepreneurship moment in America post-pandemic
- Traditional gatekeepers (newspapers, magazines) less relevant
- Social media democratizes food storytelling
- Historical barriers for black entrepreneurs:
- Lack of generational wealth
- Blocked from institutional lending
- Excluded from traditional review systems
- Current advantage: direct broadcasting through social media
Resources and Accessibility
- Book includes comprehensive resource section
- Vendor information for specialty ingredients (Venice Seeds, Barbara, etc.)
- Google-like research encouragement for readers
- Supports local/online stores through increased demand
- Learning approach similar to mastering Japanese soy, ramen, Italian cuisine
Five Original American Cuisines from Black Diaspora
- Low country cuisine
- Southern/soul food
- Cajun and Creole
- Barbecue
- All stem from black diaspora influence
- Parallel to American music: blues, funk, hip-hop, jazz, gospel
Leah Chase: Culinary Legend and Inspiration
- Owned New Orleans restaurant (opened 1940s, still operating 80+ years)
- Broke segregation laws serving integrated clientele
- Civil rights meeting location
- Activist and advocate for black art
- Crowdfunded civil rights movement in 1950s-60s
- Marcus credits civil rights movement + immigration laws for his American opportunity
Featured Contributors and Diversity Examples
- Cheryl Day: baker from Savannah, Georgia
- Nina Compton: New Orleans-based chef
- Eduardo Jordan: Seattle-based, Lagos-influenced cuisine
- 45 featured chefs with full stories
- 200+ chefs mentioned throughout book
- Emphasis on ubiquitous presence, not geographic limitations
Recipe Showcase and Discussion
- Cauliflower steak with jambalaya-inspired mayo (Nina Compton)
- Vegetarian option, pandemic-inspired plant-based eating
- Pairing suggestions: collards, lentils, turmeric rice
- Seamoss Delight smoothie
- Caribbean superfood, Jamaica origins
- Overnight soaking process, creates natural jelly
- Vegan ocean seaweed blend with orange juice
- Kelewelly (plantains)
- West African street food inspiration
- Ripe plantains with spice mix and dip
- Reflects outdoor eating culture in African markets
- Fish cakes with greens (Michelle from Restaurant Gray, Savannah)
- 2020 connection through virtual cooking experiences
- Red wine spice chocolate cake
- Practical use of leftover wine
- Welcoming approach to black food accessibility
- Ingredients: cinnamon, orange, complex flavors
Personal Cooking and Family Traditions
- Family dynamics: wife's sisters take over kitchen during holidays
- Ethiopian food hierarchy: Marcus ranks 5th best cook in household
- Son Zion loves cooking process, less interested in eating
- Oral tradition importance in black food culture
- Ancient dish histories: Kitfo (2000+ years), Doro Wat (thousands of years)
- Higher purpose: cultural representation and introduction
Marcus' Kitchen Essentials
- High-quality olive oil
- Various vinegars (rice wine, etc.)
- El Ras el Hanout spice blend from Morocco ("top of the shop")
- Five spice blends as building blocks
- Current experiments: dried collard greens with bene seeds and seaweed powder
- Testing kitchen approach to recipe development
Pandemic Impact and Restaurant Industry Challenges
- 41% of black businesses (not just restaurants) closed due to COVID
- Average affected business employed 10-12 people
- Neighborhood economic impact: mom-and-pop business clusters
- Personal navigation advantage: established brand and history
- Public-private partnerships emerging as hopeful response
- Black Business Matters fund addressing specific community needs
Supporting Black Culinary Businesses
- Research local black-owned restaurants via Google search
- Order takeout/delivery when possible
- Purchase restaurant merchandise/swag
- Volunteer professional skills (tech, marketing, accounting)
- 4 hours monthly volunteer commitment suggestion
- Combination approach: financial support + skill sharing
- Creative problem-solving during pandemic restrictions
Historical Culinary Figures (Under-recognized)
- Fanny and Edith: Thomas Jefferson's executive chefs (ages 15 and 18)
- Sofia Wright: LBJ's chef, major influence on black voting rights
- Georgia Gilmore: single mother of six, 3 AM cake baking, $100/week to civil rights movement
- Advocates and activists absent from history books
- Foundational contributions to American "stew" of food culture
Fusion Cooking and Cultural Blending
- Ethiopian-Swedish-American combination example
- Cured coffee smoked salmon concept
- Green coffee toasting with Swedish salmon
- Coffee mustard sauce with Swedish dill and Ethiopian mustard
- Personal cultural intersection celebration
Low Country Food Definition and Evolution
- Geographic region: Carolinas extending to Tennessee
- Slave trade route: West Africa → Charleston
- Key ingredients brought through slavery: rice, okra
- Senegalese Jollof rice similarity to grits/rice dishes
- Climate and terroir influence on food evolution
- Great Migration impact on regional food variations
- Music parallel: Fela Kuti evolution to Burna Boy and Wizkid
Afro-Cuban Ingredients and Market Representation
- Currently underrepresented in major food stores
- Growth opportunity space identified
- Jerk sauce example of broader acceptance
- Social media changing distribution patterns
- Traditional community-specific distribution expanding
- Youth openness and curiosity driving change
Advice for Young Chefs
- Keep cooking and rising
- Document journey on social media/blogs
- Build "menu of life" through experiences
- People more open to background stories today
- Cook authentically for family/friends
- Study and learn craft fundamentals simultaneously
- Balance creativity with technical knowledge
Business Growth and Platform Sharing Philosophy
- Not either/or between restaurant operations and advocacy
- Duty to share platform and bring people up
- Red Rooster as training ground: 5-year development of chef Tristan for Miami location
- Talent + structure + opportunities = sustainable growth
- "Kick down doors" and ensure others follow
- Room sharing responsibility once achieving access
Final Reflections and Joy in Creation
- Honoring grandparents and mentors through work
- Creating content absent during his career development
- No available cookbooks by people of color when starting
- Providing learning center for all audiences:
- Non-black chefs seeking education
- Companies wanting allyship guidance
- Young people of color seeing representation
- Aspirational impact: showing community presence and possibility
- Series potential: Rise Part Two, Part Three planned
Book Availability and Follow-up
- Available at independent bookstores (preferred support)
- Amazon availability
- Follow @marcuscooks for events and updates
- "This Moment" podcast for ongoing content
- Local indie bookstore support emphasized during pandemic
